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Voyage Fever - Dan Hirdler's Travel Blog

Watsons Bay in Sydney

June 15th 2008 06:01
South Head

Do you like – in no particular order – beer nudity and head?

Of course you do. Everyone does. That’s why it’s one of Sydney’s quintessential and most popular day trips. Whether you want to potter around Sydney to kill half a day on the harbour or whether you reside there and need to use up a few hours with friends – or even better entertain family without hardly having to talk to them – the South Head and Watsons Bay combo can’t be beaten.

Wharf 4 at Circular Quay quarter to or quarter past takes you out to Watson’s Bay past the salubrious suburbs of Darling Point, Potts Point, Rose Bay, Double Bay, and Vaulcluse. If you had a couple of tens of million in your back pocket you wouldn’t be able to sit down. But then you wouldn’t need to because you could be living in one of the mansions you float past and you’d go to Watson’s Bay in your own boat.

Now wait: before you head straight into Doyle’s pub at the end of the Watson’s Bay wharf you need to work up a thirst and be put off your food simultaneously.

Wind north through the cute little weatherboard cottages that look curiously out of place along the mansion lined water further down. The small tip of the South Head has a whaler village feel complete with shell and driftwood trinkets and baby blue weather beaten shutters. Wendelling around to the edge you’ll end up at Camp Cove. A crystal clear blue bay that usually has bronzed people swimming or bathing on it.

Watsons Bay Sydney Doyles
South Head


At the northern of Camp Cove is the South Head harbour walk. No need for a sturdy shoes notify your family pack GPS and granola national park walk preparation. It’s only about 500 metres round trip.

Now you get your head and nudity.

The first bay north of Camp Cove is Lady Bay, a nudist beach. Not nudism in the Naked Wild On sense, more in the sixty-year-old-man-unusually- hairless-and-women-with-skin- like-leather-and-nipples-at-p ussy-level kind of way. Why do they wear a hat? If you’re concerned about melanoma you’ve left a good part of your body untouched. If you’ve got problems with glare apply sunglasses.

The South Head track runs across the top of Lady Bay and ends with a viewing platform where you can watch the fat old guys stretched out on the rocks like seals.

north head
The Heads


From the platform the track loops 400 metres past the lighthouse cottage at the point; around the dug out pits of the military installations; to the Hornsby Lighthouse; to further installations and the Naval base that sits between Watson’s Bay and the Head. It’s a spectacular if short walk. The views stretch north up the northern beaches, west back to the City, the harbour bridge peeking above the Mosman ridge, east out into the Pacific and Tasman and downwards to the smooth almost accommodating table like rocks below.

And when you backtrack past Lady Bay and Camp Cove you’ll have yourself back at Doyles. There’s three kinds of Doyles. Doyles the 200 year old restaurant. Doyles the newer café style wharf with takeaway outlet. And there’s Doyles the pub.

The Fish and Chips make the beer taste nicer at the pub. A brisk walk, rugged scenary, salty chips, and a larger is an unbeatable combo. They’re a little bit more expensive that the usual shark and taties but its close to the best feed of fish you’ll have in Sydney. And after a brisk walk around South Head and the natural wonders of Lady Bay, you’ll need it.

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1 Comments. [ Add A Comment ]

Comment by Cibbuano

June 16th 2008 02:43
ugh, the beer and the fish just don't sound appetizing after that...

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