Greece: Modern or Ancient?
October 31st 2009 13:31
Recently I had the opportunity to spend a week in Greece, the cradle of Western civilization. Few countries in the world have the ability to conjure up my sense of romanticism like Greece. My mind struggles to imagine a place that can encompass wonderous architecture and ruins, beautiful art, mythical gods, and a sense of physical health and well-being. Unfortunately, my arrival in Athens was enough to quickly remind me that ancient Greece is long gone and the modern country that has replaced it may not live up to all of my expectations.
Athens in particular was a disappointment for me. Large cities around the world tend to share some characteristics, and one must expect a certain level of industry and the "hustle-and-bustle" that invariably grows up around such metropolises. However, while most of these monstrous cities have an exoticism and mystery to them that makes the frustration worthwhile, Athens appears to be lacking that extra charm. Shop proprietors were short with customers and sometimes downright rude, while the smaller stores, that tend to dominate the older districts of cities, were shady an disreputable places. I've never heard a traveller extoll the virtues of taxi drivers in any country, but the Athenian cabbies were little short of predatory with tourists. The general feeling was, "everyone is out for themselves, empathy for fellow man be damned!" When I made attempts to visit the Acropolis, hoping that Athens could still redeem itself, I was told the ruins were closing early that day and that I should try again "some other time". Not an experience I've waited my whole life for.
At this point I want to make a very important point: Greece is a beautiful and wonderfful country that is definitely worth visiting. Admittedly I haven't made a very strong case for it thus far (and indeed, it didn't make a very strong case for itself) but, thankfully, there was more to my trip than just Athens. After a few miserable days in Athens I caught a ferry to Crete. Although the ferry ride lasted nearly seven hours, it was as enjoyable as transportation can be for that length of time. The ships that shuttle between the Greek islands more closely resemble mini-cruise ships than any other boat. Regardless, I was more than ready to disembark when we arrived at Heraklion, the capital of Crete. I confess, I spent little time in Heraklion itself, preferring to lounge and explore the smaller towns around it. I had hardly arrived in Crete before I decided that it was everything I had hoped Athens to be, although the taxis were really no better. The small towns on the island cater to tourists, while still providing a remarkably authentic experience. The hotel I stayed at, grandly titled, "The Prince of Lillies", was a family owned business, as were most of the restaurants and shops in the area. Although it would be misleading to try and pass it off as a resort, the owners had obviously tried to make it as pleasing an experience as possible for the weary traveller, and they were more than happy to try and meet any needs that their guests might have. The beaches were clean and clear, and the rocky cliffs in the background could have been placed there by an artist trying to create a place of perfect relaxation and beauty. In the evenings I would frequent outdoor restaurants that had live, traditional Cretan music and a mix of Mediterranian and more western foods. When I finally had to leave their idyllic island, several members of the family came to see me off, joking in a familiar way, and shaking my hands warmly. Their fondness seemed to be genuine, and I genuinely found myself expressing wishes to return and visit them again in the future.
If you are looking for an experience that won't just be a poor imitation of any large city elsewhere in the world (London, Paris, Amsterdam, etc) and have your heart set on Greece, or the Mediterranian in general, consider giving Crete a try. Athens likely won't meet your needs and expectations, and if you find yourself tired of spending too long on one island, there are many other islands that one can catch a reasonably priced ferry to.
Athens in particular was a disappointment for me. Large cities around the world tend to share some characteristics, and one must expect a certain level of industry and the "hustle-and-bustle" that invariably grows up around such metropolises. However, while most of these monstrous cities have an exoticism and mystery to them that makes the frustration worthwhile, Athens appears to be lacking that extra charm. Shop proprietors were short with customers and sometimes downright rude, while the smaller stores, that tend to dominate the older districts of cities, were shady an disreputable places. I've never heard a traveller extoll the virtues of taxi drivers in any country, but the Athenian cabbies were little short of predatory with tourists. The general feeling was, "everyone is out for themselves, empathy for fellow man be damned!" When I made attempts to visit the Acropolis, hoping that Athens could still redeem itself, I was told the ruins were closing early that day and that I should try again "some other time". Not an experience I've waited my whole life for.
At this point I want to make a very important point: Greece is a beautiful and wonderfful country that is definitely worth visiting. Admittedly I haven't made a very strong case for it thus far (and indeed, it didn't make a very strong case for itself) but, thankfully, there was more to my trip than just Athens. After a few miserable days in Athens I caught a ferry to Crete. Although the ferry ride lasted nearly seven hours, it was as enjoyable as transportation can be for that length of time. The ships that shuttle between the Greek islands more closely resemble mini-cruise ships than any other boat. Regardless, I was more than ready to disembark when we arrived at Heraklion, the capital of Crete. I confess, I spent little time in Heraklion itself, preferring to lounge and explore the smaller towns around it. I had hardly arrived in Crete before I decided that it was everything I had hoped Athens to be, although the taxis were really no better. The small towns on the island cater to tourists, while still providing a remarkably authentic experience. The hotel I stayed at, grandly titled, "The Prince of Lillies", was a family owned business, as were most of the restaurants and shops in the area. Although it would be misleading to try and pass it off as a resort, the owners had obviously tried to make it as pleasing an experience as possible for the weary traveller, and they were more than happy to try and meet any needs that their guests might have. The beaches were clean and clear, and the rocky cliffs in the background could have been placed there by an artist trying to create a place of perfect relaxation and beauty. In the evenings I would frequent outdoor restaurants that had live, traditional Cretan music and a mix of Mediterranian and more western foods. When I finally had to leave their idyllic island, several members of the family came to see me off, joking in a familiar way, and shaking my hands warmly. Their fondness seemed to be genuine, and I genuinely found myself expressing wishes to return and visit them again in the future.
If you are looking for an experience that won't just be a poor imitation of any large city elsewhere in the world (London, Paris, Amsterdam, etc) and have your heart set on Greece, or the Mediterranian in general, consider giving Crete a try. Athens likely won't meet your needs and expectations, and if you find yourself tired of spending too long on one island, there are many other islands that one can catch a reasonably priced ferry to.
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